The Saigon Edit
Happy Aries season! I started the birthday festivities early with these Vietnamese restaurants, cafes, bars, and shops...
Saigon is a 9-hour flight from Sydney. Easy-peasy compared to flying out of JFK and suffering from jetlag through day three.
Luckily, I could time my trip to one of my best friend’s annual family visits to Vietnam. The food? Insanely good. The coffee? Out of this world. The shopping? Let’s just say I broke my checked bag at the Saigon airport and needed to get that thing wrapped pronto (your treat for reading ‘til the end). Thankfully, my American optimism swooped in and saved me when the airport wrap squad accepted the little cash I carried: five dollarydoos.
Here’s the rundown of my food, bar/club, cafe (duh), shopping, and cultural recommendations.
Food
Cục Gạch Quán - District 1
This spot offers an oasis amidst the well-traversed District 1 — perfect for family dinner. Tucked in an alleyway, you have to cross a tiny wooden bridge that overlooks a koi pond.
Menu staples include pickled eggplant, tender rib stewed with pepper, crispy seabass, and more.
📍 10 Đặng Tất, Phường Tân Định, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Kim Thao Restaurant (Baby Duck) - District 3
Balut, or fertilized duck egg, has been a bucket list dish of mine for a while. Kim Thao is inconspicuously located in District 3 outside a residential building. Here she sets up shop at 3pm with red tables and stools and plenty of — you guessed it — eggs. We washed them down with fresh sugar cane juice from the local vendor.
Top with chili, fresh herbs, and lime — bon appétit.
🐣 Balut
📍104 Xuân Thủy, Thảo Điền, Quận 2, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Chang Kang Kung - District 1
The slow food movement is alive and well at Chang Kang Kung located in Saigon Centre, the city’s largest shopping mall.
They are meticulous at this hydrothermal hotpot spot. Each dish is timed to perfection, leaving space between each order — from mussels to chicken feet and octopus — to yap it up with your party.
📍Saigon Centre, Tầng 5 - 65 Lê Lợi, Bến Nghé, Quận 1
Hoa Túc - District 1
Two words: contemporary Vietnamese.
MICHELIN Recommended, Hoa Túc is perfect for a group meal. The Colonial-style interior juxtaposes the modernity of the menu — Vietnamese dishes with Parisian flare.
I highly recommend the escargot. This was probably the only place we visited with a disproportionate amount of white guests.
📍74/ 7E Hai Ba Trung, Ben Nghe Ward, D1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam 70000
Phở Tàu Bay (Áo Đỏ) - District 10
When my Grab, or Vietnam’s Uber, took me to this lunch spot, I was instantly greeted by a woman beckoning me into a three-story phở restaurant. Turns out, I was meant to meet my friend and her family at the establishment next door.
Walk-of-shaming it out, I later discovered the restaurants share identical menus and recipes, but are owned by bickering sisters who eventually built a wall between their (now competing) shops. The wait staff wear different color uniforms but keep the same establishment name.
I felt war flashbacks to the time I was hoodwinked into visiting the wrong Panna II Garden in New York’s East Village. Anyway, the phở was worth the confusion. I recommend the side with the alley seating.
📍435 Đ. Lý Thái Tổ, Phường 9, Quận 10, Hồ Chí Minh 70000, Vietnam
Little Bear Wine Bar - District 2
Natural wine and a natural selection: opt for the tasting menu. At only $50 per person, each dish is presented beautifully.
Little Bear’s Chef Duy Nguyen, a fitness model turned culinary star, won the MICHELIN Young Chef Award 2024, and it shows. The menu was equal parts refreshing and exciting with dish favorites like shrimp tartare, cuttlefish, grilled porkchop, and sponge cake (topped with coconut and banana ice cream). Come hungry.
📍36 Nguyễn Bá Huân, Thảo Điền, Thủ Đức, Hồ Chí Minh 700000, Vietnam
Cơm tấm Nguyễn Văn Cừ - District 1
Maybe my favorite meal of the trip. The pork chop here is cooked to perfection + the right amount of sweet, served on a bed of broken rice. I easily could have ordered two plates.
📍74 Đ. Nguyễn Văn Cừ, Phường Nguyễn Cư Trinh, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Dim Tu Tac - District 1
Basking in the comfort of shopping mall A/C, I grabbed post-opera dinner here with my friend and her family. I highly recommend the steamed pumpkin blossom prawn dumplings, peking duck, roast pork, and wonton noodle soup.
📍 Tầng 5 (L5-14) Saigon Centre - 65 Lê Lợi, Phường Bến Nghé, Quận 1
Ann Quán - District 1
My send-off meal was at Ann Quán in District 1, which specializes in North Vietnamese dishes. Many whiskey shots and a full belly later, and I was off to get a massage and coffee before the airport.
📍66 Ngô Đức Kế, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Xôi Gà Number One - District 1
My friend and I stumbled across this spot while searching for our last breakfast before Sydney. The Chinese sausage lives rent-free in my head!
📍15 Nguyễn Trung Trực, Phường Bến Thành, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Bánh cuốn nóng Hào Hoa - District 1
This was the best breakfast hands down. Cooked in a food cart in an inconspicuous alleyway, the pork-filled rice paper and fried shrimp were melt-in-your-mouth good.
📍177/1 Lý Tự Trọng, Phường Bến Thành, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Food stand orders
Bánh mì heo quay
Cam vắt (orange juice)
Soy (pandan rice with coconut sauce)
Coconut!!
Bars/Clubs
The Observatory - District 1
After surviving customs, I grabbed dinner before we went out to Reddit-recommended bar/club, The Observatory. The cover includes a drink ticket and two dance floors: one on the outdoor area of the rooftop and the other indoors where the lasers reminded me of Bushwick’s Paragon (RIP!). Here we found a mix of locals and foreigners all bopping to EDM.
📍 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Phường Phạm Ngũ Lão, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Mámi Cocktails - District 3
I killed time before dinner at this cute spot that doubles as a bar and Spanish-Mediterranean-Asian fusion tapas restaurant with an even cuter happy hour. FYI Mámi Cocktails is no stranger to high ABV, and my cocktail contained absinthe.
📍 97a Xuân Thủy, Thảo Điền, Thủ Đức, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Lolla - District 1
On our last night, we quite literally stumbled into Lolla en route to Bui Vien Street in all its Times Square-like glory.
With no cover and one of the best club DJ sets I’ve experienced, I 10/10 would return. What other club have I visited that can transition from The Cranberries to Doja Cat? Another win: we were the only foreigners.
📍2 Trần Hưng Đạo, Phường Phạm Ngũ Lão, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Cafes
First coffee of the trip! Phê La has to be my favorite chain in the city because it introduced me to coconut coffee. This cup gave me enough energy to make it to the club after a nine-hour flight and dinner.
☕ Blended coconut coffee
📍 Various
Trung Nguyên Legend - District 1
My second cafe experience was the iconic Trung Nguyên Legend — the first cafe chain in Vietnam to go global. I tried egg coffee for the first time, which tastes like a caffeinated eggnog.
☕ Egg coffee
📍 Various
OKKIO Nguyễn Siêu - District 1
Beet juice — now say it three times fast.
I was drawn to OKKIO because of the colorful interiors and the juice menu, which I crave more now that I live in Australia — a country that has taught me to enjoy the beet in multiple forms.
🥤 Beet juice
📍 8 Nguyễn Siêu, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh 70000, Vietnam
Bluish Cafe - District 2
A friend who lived in Saigon for the past year recommended Bluish. Their pandan latte was the perfect blend of flavor and espresso + you can listen to a record while you wait.
☕ Pandan latte
📍 15A Trúc Đường, Ward, Thủ Đức, Hồ Chí Minh 70000, Vietnam
KATINAT - District 1
Introducing: iced coconut coffee (my new favorite drink order). I seriously won’t shut up about it.
It’s less rich than egg coffee and one of my favorite flavors to ever exist. I could drink three a day…sometimes I did.
☕ Iced coconut coffee
📍 Various
Rang Rang Coffee - District 1
Rang Rang came highly recommended and for good reason. Their iced mojito latte is a fan favorite and a good distraction against the 90-degree weather.
☕ Iced mojito latte
📍 74 Hai Ba Trung, Ben Nghe, District 1, TP Ho Chi Minh *more locations
Đen Đá Coffee - District 3
I killed time before lunch with a pudding and a deep appreciation for the pine lime green interiors of this cafe. It’s smack dab in the hustle and bustle of District 3. With three floors, you can people-watch at different heights.
🍡 Green tea pudding
📍 Multiple
Cowboy Zone Cafe - District 1
Cowboy Zone Cafe served, hands down, my favorite coffee of the trip. Don’t judge a book by its cover, I suppose.
My nail tech — more on her later — has a studio located behind the counter of this cafe. After finding out she was cash-only, I had to make a couple of trips to the ATM (outside of this cafe).
Although the inside reads more like a fast food joint, the baristas were quick to offer a coconut water iced coffee when I discovered they didn’t serve regular coconut coffee. Refreshing!
☕ Iced coffee with coconut water (not on the menu!)
📍 45 Đ. Đinh Tiên Hoàng, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh 700000, Vietnam
Cafe In - District 2
I love that the cafes close so late here. For one of my 10pm coffee runs, I sat down at Cafe In for an ambitious glass of iced coconut coffee. The iced drinks here are more like milkshakes: self sweeten at your own risk.
☕ Iced coconut coffee
📍 Multiple
XLIII Specialty Coffee - District 1
I discovered this specialty shop while en route to breakfast. The glass door entrance is frosted black, which intrigued me and delayed me 20 minutes.
Inside you are welcomed by a gallery space and stairwell leading to where the magic happens: the coffee tasting room.
Prepare for a cup of coffee to set you back 9 USD — by far the most expensive one I consumed on this trip (average: 2 USD).
☕ Black coffee (Palestina Gesha #3485 blend)
📍 178a Pasteur, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam *more locations
Dabao Concept - District 3
Step into old Saigon with Dabao Concept’s cafe garden. I tried pâté chaud for the first time, and it was delightful. Pairs well with people-watching.
🥐 Pâté chaud
📍 151C Hai Bà Trưng, Phường 6, Quận 3, Hồ Chí Minh 70000, Vietnam *more locations
Gốm Sài Gòn - District 1
We discovered this spot late at night while touring The Cafe Apartment late at night. Naturally, it was closed so we returned the next morning for breakfast teas and a croissant.
🍵 Passionfruit tea
🥐 Plain croissant
📍 26 Lý Tự Trọng, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh 700000, Vietnam
Bosgaurus Coffee Roasters - District 1
Last coffee of the trip! Bosgaurus is more on the contemporary side, and it takes on a more “coffee lab” approach than a traditional cafe. How medicinal does my iced coffee look?
☕ Iced coconut coffee (not on menu!)
📍 12 Nguyễn Siêu, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Shopping
Fragile Club - District 2
The shopping scene in Saigon is INTENSE. You go into a store for one item and leave with six. Well, that’s what I did at Fragile Club — a shop that, singlehandedly, broke my bank account.
This premium streetwear brand specializes in outerwear perfect for hiking and every day.
📍18 Street No. 42, Thao Dien Ward. Ho Chi Minh City 71100, Vietnam
OBJoff - District 2
Located on the river, OBJoff showcases local, up-and-coming designers known for their avant-garde flair. It reminded me of Toronto’s U3 (if you know you know). In the market for a bubble skirt or unique tops? Look no further.
📍 73 Đ. Số 4 Làng Báo Chí, Thảo Điền, Quận 2, Hồ Chí Minh 70000, Vietnam
Rue Miche - District 1
We popped into Rue Miche for a quick coconut coffee and stayed for the clothes. At one point, I forgot that I ordered a drink and, 30 minutes later, returned to the cafe to claim it. Thank god for mini-fridges.
Rue Miche is more comparable to Lower East Side prices, but I managed to cop a hoodie that I couldn’t leave behind. If Sydney is what everyone wants LA to be, then this hoodie is how everyone wanted YEEZY Season 8 to look.
📍 9B Phùng Khắc Khoan, Đa Kao, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh 700000, Vietnam
COMPOUND GARMENT - District 1
COMPOUND looks discreet from the outside, but boasts a great selection of uniform essentials — skirts, button-downs, and Mary Janes. It’s like the Thom Browne section of Dover Street Market but with edgy baseball caps.
📍 158/5 Nguyễn Công Trứ, Phường Nguyễn Thái Bình, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Social Commitment Studio - District 1
SC Studio commits to all-silk garments at a reasonable price. I went in with my mind set on a birthday dress (as per usual), but I left with a two-piece set that I’ll mix with other pieces after my 30-years-around-the-sun Nashville trip comes to a close.
Full fit reveal on April 10!
📍 18 Dang Thi Nhu street, D1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Lider Closet - District 1
Lider caters to gender-neutral wardrobes — from hoodies and cable-knit sweaters to wrestling shorts and skinny ties. There’s truly something for everyone, especially you annoying couples who share a closet.
📍 st., Dist.1, 07 Đ. Tôn Thất Thiệp, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh 70000, Vietnam
L Soul - District 1
Stepping into L Soul is like entering a trailer on the set of a KPop music video. To be fair, the brand designs custom outfits for girl groups, like TWICE and Blackpink. It’s the perfect shop for sourcing a mini skirt the size of a belt or a corset that won’t let you beat the Ozempic allegations.
📍 257B Nguyễn Trãi, Phường Nguyễn Cư Trinh, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Tucked at the top of a small shopping complex, you have to step into another boutique to locate the staircase leading to Bunny Hill Concept. We explored BHC’s latest line, including flowy maxi skirts and wide-legged trousers — all inside a gorg showroom with custom shelving and furniture. I love an interior that isn’t straight from an IKEA ad.
📍 25 Trần Quang Diệu, Phường 14, Quận 3, Hồ Chí Minh 700000, Vietnam
The Idiot Official - District 1
Located at the top of a residential building, The Idiot Official is a monochromatic dream. Sorry to the residents who hung their clothes to dry, leaving me to browse through thinking it was a rummage sale!
Anyway, I found the perfect cycling backpack and a versatile top that can be worn five ways. 2025 is for multipurpose.
📍 Tran Hung Dao, Pham Ngu Lao, District 1, HCM, Vietnam
MOZAIC SPACE - District 3
I did some damage at MOZAIC SPACE — the last shop on my trip. This is probably why my suitcase burst halfway through the Vietjet check-in line.
From unique baseball caps to funky trousers and thick hoodies, it was uber hard narrowing down my selection to cater to Vietjet’s checked bag restrictions. RIP to that suitcase.
📍 31/23 Lê Văn Sỹ, Phường 12, Quận 3, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Wellness
This is my first time getting a gel manicure. Ever. Welcome to my thirties, I suppose.
I requested a monochrome palette and middle fingers that resembled Rorschach tests from a studio located INSIDE Cowboy Zone Cafe (see above). This combo set me back around 20 USD. Call me shooketh.
Aman Spa
Aman Spa is one of the nicer wellness establishments in District 1 and so worth it. Open late, you can enjoy a pre-bedtime massage followed by sorbet and tea.
Cultural
Ho Chi Minh City Museum of Fine Arts
No A/C, but do it for the villa-style architecture. It’s a great way to discover Vietnamese art from the 4th century to now.
The current Le Ba Dang show and exhibition space design is beautifully curated.
📍 97 P. Đức Chính, Phường Nguyễn Thái Bình, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Vinhomes Central Park
Located in a more residential part of the city, I visited Vinhomes when I desperately needed to touch grass on day 3. It’s a great retreat with river views + there’s a koi pond in the Japanese garden.
📍 Trần Trọng Kim, Phường 22, Bình Thạnh, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Tao Dan Park
Vinhomes was my pregame for Tao Dan, which is a bit more central and includes a lovely curation of sculptures. Grab a street cart OJ or passionfruit juice and take an early morning stroll in Tao Dan Park. Early is key.
📍 Ben Thanh, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
The Saigon Art Cruise takes you on a 45-minute night ride down the river set to violin music. It’s perfect for discovering new locales all while beating the heat.
📍 Bach Dang Wharf, 10B Ton Duc Thang, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam
The Opera House is a must-visit. We watched the A O Show, which is basically Cirque du Soleil on a smaller scale. It was a reminder for me to not skip my weekly barre class in Sydney.
📍 07 Công trường Lam Sơn, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh 710212, Vietnam
Honorable Mentions
The Cafe Apartment
Did I visit Saigon if I didn’t stop by this place? It’s like Vegas for caffeine lovers.
I highly recommend Gốm Sài Gòn (mentioned earlier!).
📍 42 Nguyễn Huệ, Street, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh 700000, Vietnam
Grab
It’s like Uber but edgier. For less than a dollar a ride, you can traverse districts on the back of a scooter. Sometimes you’ll catch rain. Sometimes you’ll pray for your life.
Worth it.
